Last fall, when I learned about the Yamathon, a chance to traverse the iconic Yamanote train line around central Tokyo on foot, I knew I had to do it.
Note: True Yamanote line fans will listen to this video in the background as they read this post.
Background
Last year, I was in the middle of running a ton and doing a couple of 70km trail races and feeling all-in on running. Unfortunately, the October event timing didn’t work for me. And then after my December Izu Trail Journey race, my ankle ended up taking more than 6 months to recover. In that time, for my sanity I’ve had to move my focus elsewhere and practice patience. I let go of scheming up running adventures in favor of swimming, disc golf, physical therapy and the occasional gentle short run. Along the way, I’ve painfully learned making assumptions of a smooth and predictable recovery is a mistake.
how many days I wonder?
Fortunately, since June, my ankle has clearly been improving. I’ve been able to incorporate longer and longer runs into my life. In July, I resumed going to Nanban Rengo’s weekly track workouts. In September, I cherished getting out onto the trails for a few runs in the 15km – 35km range. Despite feeling “back”, I’ve maintained a cautious attitude wanting ample proof before signing up for races or anything requiring advance commitment. I overestimated my recovery too many times earlier this year.
3 days before the Yamathon this year, my friend Chadwick asked if I wanted to join his team. I had totally forgotten about the event and realized that both my ankle would probably be fine and I was probably in good enough shape! After all, for long runs, “probably” is as good as it gets. I eagerly agreed and became the team’s fourth member.
The team was in a bit of an odd place. Originally it had been a group of runners from Hayama, hence our punny team name Hayamathon. However, people dropped out until it was just one of the original members – Masaichi. I joined Masaichi, Chadwick and our friend Alain.
The event is a volunteer driven non profit effort benefitting a variety of good causes since 2010. There are large corporate sponsors such as JP Morgan, Salesforce and Indeed as well as smaller ones: Shake Shack, Japan Rail and Global Indian National School. Friends, families, coworkers and more come together to complete the full loop or a couple of shorter options. You’re given a start time to begin the journey from Tokyo station, the choice to pick your direction, the task to snap a picture at every station, take as long as you like with whatever route you like and have an adventure! This year there were 998 teams with 3000 participants supported by 300 volunteers. While there are a variety of distances available, the full loop is roughly 40 kilometers although the route will be longer or shorter depending on each team’s wayfinding.
Our Experience
We met up around 8am near the starting area. There was some of the typical excited pre race energy but a noticeable lack of tension given how casual the event is. It was at this point looking around when I understood that clearly most people were not running – a lack of running specific gear. I hadn’t given it much thought. Pretty much whenever I spend time with Chadwick and Alain, it means we’re running; high-ish effort and trail running always with these guys so I naturally assumed we would be running. We had a group chat where we planned a bit but we didn’t really establish any clear expectations for pace or intensity.
At 8:30, we were off! It was a weird mix of feelings. On one hand, an organized race just started. On the other hand, we’re in the middle of Tokyo in a mass of people all getting oriented and figuring out where to go since there is no course. Different groups are going very different speeds and mixed throughout are normal pedestrians going about their normal Tokyo Saturday.
Fortunately we had Chadwick – chief navigator extraordinaire. He took his job seriously and had even researched last year’s winner’s route (which had been the FKT until it was broken this year). Amidst the chaos, Chadwick calmly led us. We were in good hands. Within a few minutes, we got a picture at Tokyo station and continued north.
As we approached stop #2, Kanda station, it was across a red light. This event is pretty simple without many rules but the organizers were clear there was to be absolute respect for red lights – this is Japan after all. With this downtime, not only did we bring our heart rates down, we innovated. We determined we could get a selfie with all of us and include the Kanda station sign. This “sniping” technique became a staple!
We found a groove. Akihabara, Okachimachi, Ueno and so on. We did our best to push consistently but also stop to smell the roses. Awww, cute pandas? Yes! Whale? Definitely. Not green “Green Lawson”? Huh. About 45 minutes in, an irresistible park appeared. Bathrooms, a water fountain… all located conveniently right along our road? Don’t tempt me with a good time! Around this point, we almost missed Tabata station – but fortunately I heard a suspiciously JapanRail sounding chime nearby. After a quick map check, we doubled back to correct our slight error.
All morning we had been dueling back and forth with the same group of men in purple shirts and black shorts. We seemed to be approaching the event similarly – seriously enough to run moderately fast yet not afraid to rest occasionally. Upon further inspection, it turns out we were at the starting line together too!
I was a bit nervous about the inevitable crowds around Shinjuku. However, with the right route, even Shinjuku in the middle of a Saturday felt – dare I say, reasonable?
Spirits were high as we made our way south from Shinjuku. Or maybe it was just me since I’m very familiar with the area south of Shinjuku and it was fun to be on “home turf”.
In Shibuya we found a convenience store that met Alain’s requirement of having chairs. I had thought it totally unnecessary but quickly changed my tune as we devoured food on the sublime seats. The tuna mayo onigiri, chicken cheese stick and block of yokan all went down easy – washed down with satisfying Pocari Sweat. And of course, while recharging, we were graced with the purple team running down the sidewalk yet again!
At Ebisu station, Masaichi decided to take a longer break and then continue on his own. He had told the rest of us to go on alone earlier with a faster pace but we agreed to slow down and all continue together. However, this time he was resolute.
We continued on the three of us. The elevated walkways and greenery near Osaki made a fun change of pace. The Shinagawa area felt crowded and uninspiring – my least favorite station. We sped up a bit and passed the purple team for the final time around Takanawa Gateway.
As completing our mission came more and more into focus, the vibes were good. Boom – Tokyo Tower! Cute canal? Heck yes. Feeling good? Let’s speed up! Even the strangers on the sidewalks seemed more cheery and supportive by this point. With thousands of us doing the loop in matching bibs, there was already an instant connection – smiles, cheers and quick waves of encouragement. Very much not a typical Tokyo experience where strangers are largely ignored. As we neared the end, the energy kept building. The camaraderie came in bigger and bigger waves as we pushed through.
At Yurakucho, the final station, we were so close we could taste the end. We sped up to a 5:10 min/km pace. We cruised beneath the train tracks, along the yakitori and standing bars – still daytime so uncrowded yet alive with energy. It’s a bit of an odd area with old Tokyo charm written all over it but also a modern business district filled with skyscrapers.
We crossed the finish line, feeling strong and satisfied. After a group photo, we gladly took up volunteers on a free massage. I was glad the masseuses uses towels between their hands and our clothes since we were sweaty! My guy was chatty and curious and left me feeling refreshed and taken care of. Afterwards, we went to a nearby sento in Ginza to get clean and relax. Lastly, I went home for a yummy dinner and my favorite post-run activity, relaxing on the couch. It was a good day.
By The Numbers
Appreciations
1 konbini stop
2 water fountain breaks
4th place ranking
15 years for the event and counting
30 selfies at Yamanote line stations
39km our team’s distance – Strava link
295 minutes for us to do the loop
551 teams completed the full loop
682 teams signed up for the full loop
2684 calories burnt
And countless friendly people
This experience gave me lots to appreciate!
- I simply could do it: this was my first 2025 road run longer than 15km – good job body
- The weather: early October is right when the weather shifts from hot & humid to cool and this was a perfect cool day with some drizzle
- Spontaneity: I joined last minute when I thought I would be moving that day
- Freedom: to do the event with however many stops, picking your team, whichever direction, etc
- The unique combination of exploring Tokyo, teamwork, running and trains
- Connection to strangers
- Alain, Masaichi and Chadwick: Fun friends to run with!
- Silly station selfies
What’s Next?
More running.
More adventures.
More memorable experiences.
More shenanigans with good people.
Beau's Blog 
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